MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View
This is a sleek, stylish, and modern haven with an airy and fluid design. A counter and open kitchen reside if only to showcase the culinary pyrotechnics of Chef Josef Centeno; and the deeply robust prix-fixe flaunts all the fireworks—think peak-season ingredients infused with wide-ranging flavors.
The mesmerizing kitchen (orange flames can be seen emanating from the wood-fired oven) places equal emphasis on both land and sea; while the menu is inspired by the culinary traditions of Japan and Italy. For starters, thin slices of geoduck are tossed with top-grade abalone, charred onion, nori oil, and citrus for a refreshing, flavor-brimming feast. Binchotan-grilled sea bream brings spring into focus with vegetables like locally farmed rapini and pea leaves. However, umami is the real taste of choice when it comes to plates like hand-torn pasta with porcini “bolognese,” lovage-dashi butter, and salted shiso, or the signature satsuki porridge with its moat of parmesan cream and rich Santa Barbara uni.
The frangipane clafoutis with quince and Chantilly cream is a sweet send-off. Ardent oenophiles may then indulge in a sip from the organic and biodynamic wine list for absolute bliss.