New This Month: Osteria Mozza
Nancy Silverton and Mario Batali’s latest, next to their pizzeria, has an urban elegance–high ceilings, black chandeliers–and a marble-topped cheese bar where Silverton turns out those exquisite concoctions she perfected during “Mozzarella Mondays” at the Jar: burrata with baci, marinated escarole, and caramelized shallots;
and stracciatella with celery and herbs. Batali and exec chef Matt Molina credit for the rest of an italian menu that ranges from pigs’ trotters (made into a crispy cake) to be beautiful pastas (lo that giant ravioli with ricotta and a raw egg) to a plain but tasty orata (see bass) baked in a fig leaf.
A wan slice of roasted pork is less successful entree.
6602 Melrose Ave. Hollywood (323)297-0100 or mozza-la.com.
